FASHIONIST

"Dior" brings models from the underground

Kim Jones has already written his name into the history of Christian Dior and beyond. His journey to this point by supporting the work of his friend Virgil Abloh with whom he profoundly rebuilt the world of fashion. His creative involvement created a new luxury that has now become commonplace.

For this jubilee collection, Jones directed it in detail by experimenting with previous collections by three of the brand's former designers: Yves Saint Laurent, Gianfranco Ferré and Marc Bohan. What brought these ideas together was Christian Dior's "cannage," a chair made of grass sticks. These are the chairs on which guests sat at his first salon show in 1947.

Today they sat in large box-shaped blocks colored gray.

The show began with a theatrical spectacle: the wide runway was made up of polished metallic gray tiles. The show opened with a song by Andrew Weatherall entitled "Higher Than the Sun" and all the models appeared from the runway, the tiles opened like an underground gate, this moment to be filmed with phones above.

Jones is also an excellent visual editor. He decorated cardigans with sparkling stones, placed over straight suits with long legs, cut high. The cotton shoes had motifs from the "Lady Dior" perfume. The suits were combined with brightly colored blouses.

The leopard print inspired by Dior's Mitzah Bricard was reproduced on bags and T-shirts. These were worn with sweatpants. Fluorescent green and orange colors added a different feel to the fashion show.

Jones told Vogue magazine: "It's a collage of different designers in the archive expressed in form, color, texture and atmosphere." But, we can freely say that this idea of ​​the designer was much more modernized.